Rabu, 26 Desember 2012

Batik Design Tools

Although the art form of batik is very intricate, the tools that are used are still very simple. The canting, believed to be a purely Javanese invention, is a small thin wall spouted copper container (sometimes called a wax pen) that is connected to a short bamboo handle. Normally it is approximately 11 cm. in length. The copper container is filled with melted wax and the artisan then uses the canting to draw the design on the cloth.
Canting have different sizes of spouts (numbered to correspond to the size) to achieve varied design effects. The spout can vary from 1 mm in diameter for very fine detailed work to wider spouts used to fill in large design areas. Dots and parallel lines may be drawn with canting that have up to 9 spouts. Sometimes a wad of cotton is fastened over the mouth of the canting or attached to a stick that acts as a brush to fill in very large areas.

Wajan

Wajan is used to melt the waxThe wajan is the container that holds the melted wax. It looks like a small wok. Normally it is made of iron or earthenware. The wajan is placed on a small brick charcoal stove or a spirit burner called an 'anglo'. The wax is kept in a melted state while the artisan is applying the wax to the cloth.

Wax

Different kinds and qualities of wax are used in batik. Common waxes used for batik consist of a mixture of beeswax, used for its malleability, and paraffin, used for its friability. Resins can be added to increase adhesiveness and animal fats create greater liquidity.
Blowing into the Canting keeps the wax flowing freelyThe best waxes are from the Indonesian islands of Timor, Sumbawa and Sumatra; three types of petroleum-based paraffin (white, yellow and black) are used. The amounts mixed are measured in grams and vary according to the design. Wax recipes can be very closely guarded secrets. Varying colors of wax make it possible to disguise different parts of the pattern through the various dying stages. Larger areas of the pattern are filled in with wax that is cheaper quality and the higher quality wax is used on the more intricately detailed sections of the design.
The wax must be kept at the proper temperature. A wax that is too cool will clog the spout of the canting. A wax that is too hot will flow too quickly and be uncontrollable. The artisan will often blow into the spout of the canting before applying wax to the cloth in order to clear the canting of any obstructions.

Cap

Cap utilize copper string to make various designsCreating batik is a very time consuming craft. To meet growing demands and make the fabric more affordable to the masses, in the mid-19th century the . cap. (copper stamp - pronounced chop) was developed. This invention enabled a higher volume of batik production compared to the traditional method which entailed the tedious application of wax by hand with a canting.
Each cap is a copper block that makes up a design unit. Cap are made of 1.5 cm wide copper stripes that are bent into the shape of the design. Smaller pieces of wire are used for the dots. When complete, the pattern of copper strips is attached to the handle.
The cap must be precisely made. This is especially true if the pattern is to be stamped on both sides of the fabric. It is imperative that both sides of the cap are identical so that pattern will be consistent.
Sometimes cap are welded between two grids like pieces of copper that will make a base for the top and theApplying wax with cap bottom. The block is cut in half at the center so the pattern on each half is identical. Cap vary in size and shape depending on the pattern they are needed for. It is seldom that a cap will exceed 24 cm in diameter, as this would make the handling too difficult.
Men usually handle the application of wax using cap. A piece of cloth that involves a complicated design could require as many as ten sets of cap. The usage of cap, as opposed to canting, to apply the wax has reduced the amount of time to make a cloth.
Today, batik quality is defined by cap or tulis, the second meaning hand-drawn designs which use a canting, or kombinasi, a combination of the two techniques.

Dyes

Traditional colors for Central Javanese batik were made from natural ingredients and consisted primarily of beige, blue, brown and black.
The oldest color that was used in traditional batik making was blue. The color was made from the leaves of the Indigo plant. The leaves were mixed with molasses sugar and lime and left to stand overnight. Sometimes sap from the Tinggi tree was added to act as a fixing agent. Lighter blue was achieved by leaving the cloth in the dye bath for short periods of time. For darker colors, the cloth would be left in the dye bath for days and may have been submerged up to 8 - 10 times a day.
In traditional batik, the second color applied was a brown color called soga. The color could range from light yellow to a dark brown. The dye came from the bark of the Soga tree. Another color that was traditionally used was a dark red color called mengkuda. This dye was created from the leaves of the Morinda Citrifolia.
The final hue depended on how long the cloth was soaked in the dye bath and how often it was dipped. Skilled artisans can create many variations of these traditional colors. Aside from blue, green would be achieved by mixing blue with yellow; purple was obtained by mixing blue and red. The soga brown color mixed with indigo would produce a dark blue-black color.

Senin, 10 Desember 2012

Typical Indonesian Traditional fabric Exceptional Beautiful


Lovers of traditional fabrics is time to move on from batik cloth because a lot of the archipelago that has charm as beautiful batik cloth. Yuk contacts with various local fabrics patterned charming serving their uniqueness.

1. Sasirangan
Tribal fabric Banjar in South Kalimantan is made by binding and then dipped in a variety of colors of the motives vary. Different types of tie dye, Sasirangan featuring design a more formal and elegant.

2. Ulos
Traditional Batak cloth which is usually in the form of a scarf to complete the look of traditional clothes. Of the weave, Ulos including finely woven cloth that do not use the machine. Colors are used to make the fabric of this type are red, black and white. Simple and assertive.

3. Sarong Bugis
Woven fabric which includes a special one because it comes from a series of silk with gold and silver thread. Napier traditional fabric is also featuring a mix of colors were a bit crowded and gingham so that the appearance of your party will look different.

4. Lurik
The fabrics were found in Solo and Yogyakarta have gone up a class you know. Striated formerly known as kind of cheap fabric made from cotton due to this unusual loads now used as an additional element in the shirt, kebaya, a blouse or dress. Classic line pattern in shades of solid colors make ordinary clothes look more attractive.

5. Songket Lombok
Traditional fabric with a distinctive design motif and gold colors blend yarn that looks shiny and beautiful. Not surprisingly, this fabric always be the target of the tourists when coming to this beautiful island. The style and feel of bright colors is perfect paired with a collection of white kebaya or blouse.

6. Filter
Cloth from Lampung with various motifs typical local really. Not many who wear the cloth of this type to be dress or shirt as this included ethnic fabrics that are only used at certain moments. Based on information from indonesiakaya.com, the average price of a piece of cloth Tapis is one million rupiah. Hmmm, fantastic! Pantesan affection even when cut for dijadiin shirt.

7. Gringsing
To produce a masterpiece is not easy. This applies to the type of fabric from the village of Tenganan, Bali. It takes 2-5 years you know to make fabrics with double ikat technique this. It's gonna be so worth it.

Rabu, 31 Oktober 2012

history Kebaya


Kebaya is the symbol of the identity of the Indonesian nation, which is a traditional Indonesian clothes, and kebaya outfit is hereditary in use since the days of empire in Indonesia. Kebaya which initially could only be used by women and women who have blue blood, but at this time along with the times can now be used by everyone in every layer of society. Although these changes Kebaya clothing materials and models but the resulting shape is still very strong with the classic characteristics kebaya Indonesia. Kebaya is made of a thin material that is worn with a sarong, batik, or other traditional knitted clothing such as songket with a colorful motif. Usually accompanied bustier and fabrics tapih pinjung with stagen. Baju kebaya worn by the duchess and the common people well as everyday clothing and ceremonial clothing.
        Kebaya origin of the word comes from the Arabic abaya which means clothes. Trust kebaya originating from China hundreds of years ago. Then spread to Malacca, Java, Bali, Sumatra, and Sulawesi. After acculturation which lasted hundreds of years, the clothing is accepted in local cultures and sensitivities. But in ancient times more identical Kebaya worn by the women of Java. Its type and model kebaya is different in each region that are scattered throughout Java. Central Java has its own kebaya, kebaya commonly used women java usually kebaya Solo / Surakarta. Solo is an area known as the royal palace and the region is still thick with the nuances of the kingdom. Kebaya is typical of Central Java in general is kebaya made of black velvet, brocade, or nylon.

Batik, the Traditional Fabric of Indonesia




It would be impossible to visit or live in Indonesia and not be exposed to one of the country's most highly developed art forms, batik. On your first visit to a batik store or factory you will undoubtedly experience an overwhelming stimulation of the senses - due to the many colors, patterns and the actual smell of batik. Only through repeated visits and a bit of study will the types of designs and their origins become apparent.
The word batik is thought to be derived from the word 'ambatik' which translated means 'a cloth with little dots'. The suffix 'tik' means little dot, drop, point or to make dots. Batik may also originate from the Javanese word 'tritik' which describes a resist process for dying where the patterns are reserved on the textiles by tying and sewing areas prior to dying, similar to tie dye techniques. Another Javanese phase for the mystical experience of making batik is “mbatik manah” which means “drawing a batik design on the heart”.

A Brief History

Although experts disagree as to the precise origins of batik, samples of dye resistance patterns on cloth can be traced back 1,500 years ago to Egypt and the Middle East. Samples have also been found in Turkey, India, China, Japan and West Africa from past centuries. Although in these countries people were using the technique of dye resisting decoration, within the textile realm, none have developed batik to its present day art form as the highly developed intricate batik found on the island of Java in Indonesia.
King Kertajasa East Java 1294-1309Although there is mention of 'fabrics highly decorated' in Dutch transcripts from the 17th century, most scholars believe that the intricate Javanese batik designs would only have been possible after the importation of finely woven imported cloth, which was first imported to Indonesia from India around the 1800s and afterwards from Europe beginning in 1815. Textile patterns can be seen on stone statues that are carved on the walls of ancient Javanese temples such as Prambanan (AD 800), however there is no conclusive evidence that the cloth is batik. It could possibly be a pattern that was produced with weaving techniques and not dying. What is clear is that in the 19th century batik became highly developed and was well ingrained in Javanese cultural life.
Some experts feel that batik was originally reserved as an art form for Javanese royalty. Certainly it's royal nature was clear as certain patterns were reserved to be worn only by royalty from the Sultan's palace. Princesses and noble women may have provided the inspiration for the highly refined design sense evident in traditional patterns. It is highly unlikely though that they would be involved in any more than the first wax application. Most likely, the messy work of dyeing and subsequent waxings was left to court artisans who would work under their supervision.
Javanese royalty were known to be great patrons of the arts and provided the support necessary to develop many art forms, such as silver ornamentation, wayang kulit (leather puppets) and gamelan orchestras. In some cases the art forms overlap. The Javanese dalang (puppeteer) not only was responsible for the wayang puppets but was also Tambil Miring Designan important source of batik patterns. Wayang puppets are usually made of goat skin, which is then perforated and painted to create the illusion of clothing on the puppet. Used puppets were often sold to eager ladies who used the puppets as guides for their batik patterns. They would blow charcoal through the holes that define the patterns of clothing on the puppets, in order to copy the intricate designs onto the cloth.
Other scholars disagree that batik was only reserved as an art form for royalty, as they also feel its use was prevalent with the rakyat, the people. It was regarded an important part of a young ladies accomplishment that she be capable of handling a canting (the pen-like instrument used to apply wax to the cloth) with a reasonable amount of skill, certainly as important as cookery and other housewifery arts to Central Javanese women.

Selection and Preparation of the Cloth for Batik

Natural materials such as cotton or silk are used for the cloth, so that it can absorb the wax that is applied in the dye resisting process. The fabrics must be of a high thread count (densely woven). It is important that cloth of high quality have this high thread count so that the intricate design qualities of batik can be maintained.
Applying wax with a canting to create BatikThe cloth that is used for batik is washed and boiled in water many times prior to the application of wax so that all traces of starches, lime, chalk and other sizing materials are removed. Prior to the implementation of modern day techniques, the cloth would have been pounded with a wooden mallet or ironed to make it smooth and supple so it could best receive the wax design. With the finer machine-made cotton available today, the pounding or ironing processes can be omitted. Normally men did this step in the batik process.
Strict industry standards differentiate the different qualities of the cloth used today, which include Primissima (the best) and Prima. The cloth quality is often written on the edge of the design. A lesser quality cloth which is often used in Blaco.

Selasa, 04 September 2012

Special Treatments to the Batik Cloth And bayik Design

Prada or Gold Cloth

For special occasions, batik was formerly decorated with gold lead or gold dust. This cloth is known as Prada cloth. Gold leaf was used in the Jogjakarta and Surakarta area. The Central Javanese used gold dust to decorate their Prada cloth. It was applied to the fabric using a handmade glue consisting of egg white or linseed oil and yellow earth. The gold would remain on the cloth even after it had been washed. The gold could follow the design of the cloth or could take on its own design. Older batiks could be given a new look by applying gold to them. Gold decorated cloth is still made today; however, gold paint has replaced gold dust and leaf.

Batik Designs

Although there are thousands of different batik designs, particular designs have traditionally been associated with traditional festivals and specific religious ceremonies. Previously, it was thought that certain cloth had mystical powers to ward off ill fortune, while other pieces could bring good luck.
Wedding Batik
Certain batik designs are reserved for brides and bridegrooms as well as their families. Other designs are reserved for the Sultan and his family or their attendants. A person's rank could be determined by the pattern of the batik he/she wore.
In general, there are two categories of batik design: geometric motifs (which tend to be the earlier designs) and free form designs, which are based on stylized patterns of natural forms or imitations of a woven texture. Nitik is the most famous design illustrating this effect.
Certain areas are known for a predominance of certain designs. Central Javanese designs are influenced by traditional patterns and colors. Batik from the north coast of Java, near Pekalongan and Cirebon, have been greatly influenced by Chinese culture and effect brighter colors and more intricate flower and cloud designs.
High fashion designs drawn on silk are very popular with wealthy Indonesians. These exceptionally high-quality pieces can take months to create and costs hundreds of dollars.

Kawung

Kawung DesignKawung is another very old design consisting of intersecting circles, known in Java since at least the thirteenth century. This design has appeared carved into the walls of many temples throughout Java such as Prambanan near Jogjakarta and Kediri in East Java. For many years, this pattern was reserved for the royal court of the Sultan of Jogjakarta. The circles are sometimes embellished inside with two or more small crosses or other ornaments such as intersecting lines or dots. It has been suggested that the ovals might represent flora such as the fruit of the kapok (silk cotton) tree or the aren (sugar palm).

Ceplok

Ceplok DesignCeplok is a general name for a whole series of geometric designs based on squares, rhombs, circles, stars, etc. Although fundamentally geometric, ceplok can also represent abstractions and stylization of flowers, buds, seeds and even animals. Variations in color intensity can create illusions of depth and the overall effect is not unlike medallion patterns seen on Turkish tribal rugs. The Indonesian population is largely Muslim, a religion that forbids the portrayal of animal and human forms in a realistic manner. To get around this prohibition, the batik worker does not attempt to express this matter in a realistic form. A single element of the form is chosen and then that element is repeated again and again in the pattern.

Parang

Parang DesignParang was once used exclusively by the royal courts of Central Java. It has several suggested meanings such as 'rugged rock', 'knife pattern' or 'broken blade'. The Parang design consists of slanting rows of thick knife-like segments running in parallel diagonal bands. Parang usually alternated with narrower bands in a darker contrasting color. These darker bands contain another design element, a line of lozenge-shaped motifs call mlinjon. There are many variations of this basic striped pattern with its elegant sweeping lines, with over forty parang designs recorded. The most famous is the 'Parang Rusak' which in its most classical form consisting of rows of softly folded parang. This motif also appears in media other than batik, including woodcarving and as ornamentation on gamelan musical instruments.

Washing Batik

Harsh chemical detergents, dryers and drying of fabrics in the sun may fade the colors in batik. Traditionally dyed batiks should be washed in soap for sensitive fabrics, such as Woolite, Silky or Halus. Fine batik in Indonesia is washed with the lerak fruit which can be purchased at most traditional markets. A bottled version of this detergent is also available at batik stores. Be sure to line dry batik in a shady area and not in direct sunlight.

Jumat, 17 Agustus 2012

Indonesian traditional cloth translucent fashion world, so cool Suitable for formal and casual activities.



Brilio.net - All lines that exist in Indonesia is a form of wealth owned by the country. Culinary music to original fashion Indonesia is now recognized in many world stage. Indonesian young people are now no longer embarrassed to wear clothes typical of the region in a variety of formal and casual activities.

Every region in Indonesia, from Sumatra, Java, Kalimantan, Nusa Tenggara, to Papua has its own peculiar clothing. Feature area is not only seen from the pattern depicted, but also of how they are made.

Some fabric produced by weaving, which is a simple technique that combines threads lengthwise and crosswise. The materials used can be of wood fibers, cotton, and silk. Clothes that are inherited are now easily found in a number of world-class fashion events. Here are five traditional fabric that is penetrating the world-class fashion.

1. Batik.




Pictorial cloth various shades is not only easy to come by on the island of Java, but also a variety of other areas. Each region has a different complexion. In Java, there aja Batik Pekalongan, Garutan Batik, Batik Solo, and others. So also in other areas there Batik Madura, Bali Batik, Batik Jambi and others, of course with the characteristic of each region. Batik has many featured in various fashion week in various countries. Among the designers who introduce batik to the international world is Denny Wirawan. He introduced Batik eg in the event of New York Fashion Week, 2016.

2. Songket.




Songket is a fabric produced technical degan weaving and using traditional machines. This fabric has a complex pattern of gold or silver thread. Words songket intend to bring out or pull the thread out of the fabric or weave using gold and silver threads. Songket Silungkang Silungkang origin, Sawahlunto, West Sumatra, for example, had taken Shafira Corporation to Couture Fashion Week in New York in 2015. other Designer've brought songket into the international arena is Dian Pelangi.

Rabu, 15 Februari 2012

Characteristic Fashion Indonesia


Fashion is a fashion that determine a person's appearance that determines a person's appearance in certain events. that looks different from previous performances.
  the hallmark of Indonesian fashion:
 * batik
 * kebaya
in saigner - saigner Indonesia strives to develop its work so that batik and kebaya as items that - it was just or mononton.
example: batik and kebaya that can only be used for parents to keondangan but also biusa berahli function as clothes are casual and not too formal.
Batik Indonesia is one of the cultural heritage that must be protected from being taken by other states claiming that batik is a cultural heritage instead of Indonesia and as an Indonesian citizen who either have to keep and introduce that batik is one of the motives that must be used in all kinds of fashion and the current model.

Senin, 16 Januari 2012

Indonesian Food You Must Eat



There is actually more to Indonesian food than Nasi Goreng. Yes, you heard me right. There is so much to Indonesian cuisine that giving you a Top 10 Must Eat is almost impossible, but we shall try.

Here is a list of best Indonesian food that you must eat when you are here, though by no means complete, but we will try our best to keep it open and up for debate.

Nasi Goreng – Literally means fried rice, it is actually the usual famous Southeast Asian style of stir-frying cooked rice, but with it’s very own Indonesian spices and mix

Soto Betawi – There are a few Soto here in Indonesia that you must try, first is the Soto Betawi, which the soup is made of beef or beef offal with cow milk, it is a unique variation in itself with a distinct taste.

Rendang – Literally means dry curry, rendang is a really popular dish in Indonesia that is actually a dry beef stew. It is originated from Minangkabau (or also known as Padang) in West Sumatra. That is why it is either called Rendang Padang or Rendang Minangkabau. Rendang is basically meat, normally beef but sometimes liver, chicken, goat or other meats, would be cooked in coconut milk and spices until dry resulting in an intense concoction of taste and texture. It is one of the best food in the world, try it to believe it!

Ketoprak – Ketoprak is one of Indonesian traditional food. It is a mix of bean-sprout, deep-fried tofu, onion, eggs with special peanut sauce.

Soto Mie / Soto Mee – Sotomie (or Mee Soto) which is one of the most popular soto for its own right, it is either made of chicken or beef for soup and served with noodles and sliced risoles spring rolls. Of of the best Sotomie in Jakarta can be found at a stall inside Mangga Dua.

Sate / Satay ayam – Sate or Satay Ayam (chicken), are skewered and grilled (BBQ) chicken served with flavourful peanut sauce. It is also known as national dish of Java, Indonesia, making it a strong contender to our Nasi Goreng.

Rawon – Rawon is a black beef soup, made with beef and keluak (black nuts) as the main spice giving it a strong nutty taste and dark in colour, along with other spices and normally served with rice.

Gudeg – A traditional food hail from Yogyakarta in Central Java, gudeg is a stew made from young jack fruit (nangka) with palm sugar, coconut milk, meat, garlic, and lots of spices. It is one of the most flavourful food in the world, melding everything from taste to textures.

Bakso – Bakso or Baso in Indonesia, is a meatball made from beef surimi (meat paste, normally beef, with some tapioca flour). It is usually served in a bowl of beef broth with noodles, bihun (rice vermicelli), vegetables, tofu and eggs.

Soto Ayam – This is a chicken soup which is yellow and slightly spicy, normally served with lontong or nasi empit or ketupat (rice cakes) and vermicelli (rice noodles).

Sayur Asem – Sayur Asem or sayur asam (literally sour vegetables) is a tamarind soup made from peanuts, young jackfruit, melinjo, long beans, chayote, corn and meat stock (normally beef) and of course tamarind.

Nasi Kuning – Nasi Kuning (yellow rice) or sometimes known as Nasi Kunyit (turmeric rice) is a famous Indonesian breakfast rice cooked in coconut milk and turmeric. It is usuall serve with some omelette, grated coconut and spices and fried anchovy and kacang (peanuts).

Ayam goreng – Ayam Goreng seem to be as simple as it sounds – fried chicken, but the Indonesian flash their frying skill here at the best with one of most amazing fried chicken you will find in the world, crisp on the outside juicy on the inside.

Gado-gado – Gado-gado (or also known as Lotek) is an Indonesian salad, a combination of boiled vegetables doused generously with peanut sauce dressing. There are other similar dishes like pecel and atah or karedok.

Gado-gado, a vegetarian's favourite in Bali and rest of Indonesia. Fried Tempe on the bottom right
Gado-gado with Fried Tempe on the bottom right.

Minggu, 01 Januari 2012

Types of Kebaya Indonesia

Indonesia has many kinds kebaya from each region, which is like the one below:

1. Kebaya Java
Type kebaya in Indonesia, the first is the Javanese kebaya. Javanese kebaya is characterized by a V-shaped collar with a simple motif, with a thin and transparent fabric patterned with innards in combined-matching with the outside of the fabric. the exact type of Javanese kebaya is already familiar in the eyes of the people of Indonesia.

2. Kebaya Kartini
Kebaya is the formerly used by women for high R.A era Kartini. So, Javanese kebaya is also synonymous with the term kebaya Kartini. Pieces of this type is similar to the kebaya kebaya Encim, which sets it apart is the folds in the chest. Another feature of the Javanese kebaya kebaya is the length that closes the pelvis and collar folds to form a vertical line, which makes the wearer the impression of height and slender.

3. Kebaya Encim
Encim Kebaya is a blend of typical Chinese outfit Shanghai and typical Malay kebaya. Kebaya Encim generally made with materials or cotton organdy. Kebaya that distinguishes this from other types kebaya is, a model with an embroidered collar V along the collar and down.

4. Kebaya Bali
Traditional kebaya traditional Balinese style has many designed to be more modern. Busan Bali Kebaya can be changed into a more kebaya. But the difference of this from the other kebaya kebaya bali which is characterized by the presence of additional Obi or scarf wrapped around the waist, sometimes shawls were also in great Bross as dead. Materials that are often used by kebaya bali this is brocade and cotton.

5. Kebaya New Fleas
Type kebaya in Indonesia latter is kebaya new fleas. Basically this type of new fleas kebaya kebaya-kebaya together with others, but what distinguishes this type kebaya has extra fabric in the middle part that connects the left and right side of the chest and abdomen bgaian. which makes the traditional look.